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Performance Tuning MSD Pro-Billet Distributors

Can't Get Your Engine to Idle Clean?

Scroll down to learn how to properly tune your bushing type MSD distributor for max performance and Idle Quality

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Don't waste your time and money for cheap Chinese knock offs. They don't work! There is a reason why ours are American made.

Made in USA

Advance limiter bushings Part #LB-1 for most MSD Pro Billet and regular performance distributors.

Each kit consists of a  CnC machined +-.0005, 10* and 14* limiter bushing.  Scroll down for more information on this unique and exclusive design.

In stock $39.00

Shipping included to lower 48


DEGREES (The numbers show the number of degrees of mechanical advance at the crank)

  • Red-Smallest 28

  • Silver 25

  • Green 23

  • Blue 21

  • Purple 19

  • Black-Largest 18


  • FBO – 1 Machined Aluminum 14*

  • FBO- 1 Machined Aluminum with milled flats 10*



American Made for American Reliability



  • Tired of the Unreliability of MSD Ignition Boxes?

  • Messing with the inadequate selection of Bushings?

  • Getting stuck with more Chinese made products?

  • Waiting for days to get Tech help?

Map your timing from crank to 10,000 RPM in 2D or 3D

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Read More about the CD-1 Ignition boxes from Daytona Sensors


Compare CD1 MSD and Crane Ignition Boxes


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Can't get rid of that Stinky Rich Exhaust at idle?

The MSD distributors come with 3 bushings with the largest one being 18* so when installed it will give you 18* of mechanical advance.  If you trying to total the engine at 36* you would simply set the idle timing at 18* and this bushing will allow it to advance another 18* to bring your total to 36*.

Here's the issue, as most of you have already discovered to get a clean crisp idle out of your tune up and to make the carb adjustments respond to your tuning your performance engine wants more initial timing without getting too much total timing.

MSD will tell you to lock it out at 36 and buy one of their spark retard units ($179.00) so you can get it to crank over at 36*.   We 100% adamantly disagree with this ridiculous solution designed to bleed your wallet.  Your motor may like the 36* all the time but in most applications it will cause hard starting, over heating and detonation issues at low RPM high load. 

By simply swapping out the black 18* MSD bushing (or other MSD stock bushings provided) and inserting one of our custom machined bushings it will allow you to set you idle timing at 22* (14* Bushing) or 26* (10* bushing)  and not allow the timing to exceed the desired 36*. (34* for Mopars and 35* for Fords)

Then run a heavy enough spring so your timing mark isn't jumping around when your trying to set it.  Too light of a spring will allow the weights to bounce off the stops and cause the timing mark to be erratic when your trying to set your timing.  If your running a 3000-4000 Stall or bigger Convertor there is no need to bring the timing all in until just below the stall, you can't load the motor until the Convertor locks anyhow so there's no performance gain to be had by running your distributor all in at 2000 RPM with a 4000 stall Convertor...think about it.

Big cams bleed off cylinder pressure requiring you to run big initial timing numbers this will really help you get quick clean starts, we want the motor to have as much initial timing as possible without kicking back or dragging down the starter and at the same time still have plenty of initial timing to get quick and easy starts.

From our experience I would guess that 50% of you are having these issues, either you purchased a Pro Billet non-vacuum distributor for an engine that needs a vacuum advance and you can't get enough initial to get a clean idle or you've been reading MSD instructions and you've got the Non-Adjustable vacuum line hooked to the ported vacuum instead of the constant.  We can help you with all of these issues, not only the right parts if needed but real tech advice from professional people who will take to time to explain to you why changes may be needed.

Give us a call and lets talk about your issues and maybe we can help solve them.

Eye Opener!:  Compare MSD, Crane and the Made in America Daytona CD1 Ignition Boxes

541-942-5920  8am to 3pm Monday-Thursday  Pacific Time

Tech Tip from MSD Erik Brock quote from "Good Ink by Gwen Johnson"

“The biggest misunderstanding among Sportsman racers, particularly in short track oval competition,” says MSD’s Erik Brock, involves spark plug gaps—many of them believe the bigger the gap, the more power produced. But this is not the case.

“If it’s a mildly tuned engine it may not matter; the ignition system will usually do the job—especially if it’s ignited by a capable ignition box and coil—even though it has to work harder. But if it’s a race engine with compression ratios of 13 or 14 or 15:1, with 0.030in or 0.040in even as high as .050 plug gaps, the ignition system is greatly disadvantaged. Generating a spark that’s compelled to jump a wide plug gap is inviting trouble. It’s even tougher if the engine is fueled by alcohol where larger volumes of fuel are involved.

Often racers come to the MSD trailer with the same issue: the car won’t rev on the straightaway or it won’t come up to the rev limiter,” says Brock. “I ask them their compression ratio and their plug gap? Often they’ll tell me it’s 0.045 or 0.050in. Nine times out of 10 when they close the gap by 0.010in the car runs better. By closing the plug gap they reduce the load on the ignition coil. But this also reveals a weakness in the ignition system and at this point they realize they need a better coil.”

We totally agree with Erik's synopsis on this subject, he is dead on. We've been advocating this for years and feel it's a must for Bracket racing to maintain deadly consistency. In my personal 14:1 Race Motor to 7000 RPM I run a .023 gap.


MSD/FBO LB-1 bushing size to degrees of mechanical advance


MSD does not hold tight tolerances on the slot so degrees of timing may vary slightly.



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