Working on a car can be dangerous, use utmost care and caution should be practiced.  Always use good quality jack stands on a solid surface before beginning any work.  Brakes should only be serviced by a trained professional.  This article is to show you the proper procedures and not intended as a manual for you to follow.

The author has no responsibility for the end result, again Brakes Should Only Be Serviced by a Trained Professional.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

NOTE: NEVER REPLACE THE PADS ON ONE SIDE ONLY! ALWAYS REPLACE PADS ON BOTH WHEELS AS A SET!

Chrysler Sliding Caliper

1. Raise and support the front end on jack stands.

    

   Fig. 1: Finger and shoe retainer flange locations

    

2. Remove the wheels.

    

   Fig. 2: The wheel must be removed for access to the front brake components

    

3. Remove the caliper retaining clips and anti-rattle springs by removing the bolt as shown in Fig 3.

    

   Fig. 3: Loosen the retaining clip bolt with the proper size socket

    

   Fig. 4: After loosening, unthread the bolt and place it where it will be easily found for installation

    

4. Remove the caliper from the disc by slowly sliding the caliper and brake pad assembly out and away from the disc. Do not damage the flexible brake hose.

    

   Fig. 5: Carefully slide the caliper away

    

5. Drain some of the fluid from the master cylinder.  As you push the piston back to make room for the thicker new pads the fluid will push back into the master cylinder and overflow, be aware of this and remember.....Brake Fluid eats Paint and Asphalt

    

   Fig. 6: Once the caliper is free of the rotor and mounting, the brake pads may be removed

    

   Fig. 7: Exploded view of a sliding caliper assembly

    

6. Remove the outboard pad from the caliper by prying between the pad and the caliper fingers. Remove the inboard pad from the caliper support by the same method. DO NOT depress the brake pedal with the pads removed!
7. Push the pistons to the bottom of their bores. This may be done with a large C-clamp or a pair of large pliers by placing a flat metal bar against the pistons and depressing the pistons with a steady force. This operation will displace some of the fluid in the master cylinder.

   DO NOT use a hammer

   Fig. 8: Attaching the shoe to the caliper fingers with a C-clamp

   Once you've removed the old pads you'll see the wear marks where the caliper slides.  Use a wire brush and even some sandpaper to clean these contact points and lightly grease them before installing the new pads.   Also check the dust boots for cracks and internal leaks, there should be no brake fluid behind the dust boot.

    

8. Slide the new pads onto the caliper and caliper support. The ears of the pad should rest on the bridges of the caliper.  It's important that the pad be tight and locked to the caliper, bend the ears as shown in both directions so the pad locks tight, this will help prevent any squealing.  DO NOT hit friction material with the hammer to fit the pad, this will damage it and cause premature wear and possible failure resulting in injury or possibly death.

    

   Fig. 9: Bending the outboard shoe retainer flange

    

9. Install the caliper on the disc and install the caliper retaining clips, pins and anti-rattle springs. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm.  Clean everything with a wire wheel or brush and use a drop of Loc-Tite blue on the retaining spring bolts, tork to spec.

   Pump the pedal slowly a little at a time until you get a firm pedal, a hard quick pump will switch the proportioning valve over to two wheel brakes and you'll have hard time getting it back into balance.  If the brake light comes on you went too far too fast.

   Fig. 10: Install the retaining clip with the pads and caliper in position — now where did you put the bolt?

    

10. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add fluid as needed.
11. Install the wheels.
12. Road test the truck. Although the vehicle may pull to one side slightly, the pull should disappear shortly as the pads wear in.

Bendix Sliding Caliper

1. Remove and discard some of the fluid from the master cylinder without contaminating the contents to avoid overflow later on.
2. Support the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheels.

    

   Fig. 11: Bendix caliper adapter, steering knuckle adaptor

    

   Fig. 12: Before removing the caliper, use a C-clamp to carefully bottom the piston in its bore

    

3. Put an 8 in. (203mm) C-clamp over the caliper and use it to push the outer pad in and pull the caliper out. This bottoms the caliper piston in its bore.

    

   Fig. 13: Use a C-clamp to carefully bottom the piston

    

4. Remove the key retaining screw. Drive the caliper support key and spring out toward the outside, using a brass drift.

    

   Fig. 14: Use a hammer and brass drift to tap out the support key and spring

    

   Fig. 15: Bendix front disc unit

    

5. Push the caliper down and rotate the upper end up and out. Support the caliper, so as not to damage the brake hose.
6. Remove the outer pad from the caliper. You may have to tap it to loosen it. Remove the inner pad, removing the anti-rattle clip from the lower end of the shoe.

    

   Fig. 16: Removal of the inner pad from the adapter

   To install:

7. Thoroughly clean the sliding contact areas on the caliper and spindle assembly.
8. Put the new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the new inner pad. Put the pad and clip in the pad abutment with the clip tab against the abutment and the loop-type spring away from the disc. Compress the clip and slide the upper end of the pad into place.
9. If the caliper piston isn't bottomed, bottom it with a C-clamp.
10. The replacement outer pad may differ slightly from the original equipment. Put the outer pad in place and press the tabs into place with your fingers. You can press the tabs in with a C-clamp, but be careful of the lining.

     

    Fig. 17: Press the outboard pad onto the caliper, but make sure you protect the pad with a wooden block

     

11. Position the caliper on the spindle assembly by pivoting it around the upper mounting surface. Be careful of the boot.
12. Use a prytool to hold the upper machined surface of the caliper against the support assembly. Drive a new key and spring assembly into place with a plastic mallet. Install the retaining screw and tighten to 12–20 ft. lbs. (16–27 Nm).

     

    Fig. 18: Install the caliper over the disc into the upper mating groove

     

    Fig. 19: Install the key and spring on the caliper

     

13. Replace the wheels and tires and lower the truck to the floor. Fill the master cylinder as specified in Section 1. Depress the brake pedal firmly several times to seat the pads on the disc. Don't drive until you get a firm pedal.

Chrysler Floating Caliper

1. Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the guide pins, positioners, and anti-rattle spring.
3. Slowly slide the caliper assembly away from the rotor.

   NOTE: Support the caliper to prevent damage to brake hose.

    

4. Remove the disc pads, guide pin bushings, and positioners, discard of the bushings and positioners.

   To install:

5. Check the piston seal for leaks and inspect the dust boot for damage.
6. Inspect the piston for damage or corrosion.
7. Check for corrosion or rust on the mating surfaces of the caliper and anchor plate.
8. Install new guide pin bushings with flanged end toward outside of vehicle.
9. Bottom piston into cylinder bore and install pads.

   NOTE: Be sure the metal portion of pad is fully seated in recess of caliper and anchor plate.

    

10. Carefully slide caliper assembly into position over rotor.
11. Install new positioners over guide pins with open ends towards outside and stamped arrows pointing up.
12. Align guide pin holes in caliper and anchor plate, install guide pin assemblies.
13. Bleed the brake system.
14. Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten lug nuts.

Rotors have a minimum  thickness stamped into them, cutting a rotor below this minimum is dangerous and ILLEGAL.  A rotor that's too thin can not disperse the heat generated by the brake system and will cause pre-mature wear of the pads, overheat the fluid causing brake fad and may simply break under load.  DON'T DO IT!

Don't be surprised if after your all done you start to see leakage in the boot and seal area.  Pistons can get pitted from road contaminants and when you push it back into the seal this pitted area may cause the seal to leak.  The dust boots, as they're known are critical to life of the caliper components, check them and replace the boots and seal if they indicate any wear.

Brake Service should only be done by a trained professional.